Climbing North Ushba

Classic route

Georgia, Svaneti

Climbing North Ushba Classic route. 10 days.
The most famous peak of Svaneti. Caucasian "Matterhorn"
Ascension 2023 season
We will climb the easiest route to the Northern peak of Ushba. The height of which is 4690 meters. The route is snow-ice and requires skills to move on ice. First, our path runs through the Ushba icefall, which is the first difficult section on the way to the top. It should be given special attention, the glacier is severely torn and requires participants to have experience of climbing and belaying on the glacier. Next, we will reach a plateau at an altitude of 4000 m. The assault will pass through the ice slope with a steepness of up to 60 degrees "Shovel", then a long snowy ridge leading to the top and return back to the assault camp on a plateau of 4000 m, then according to the program we will rest and go to Mestia to celebrate climb!
  • Date:
    2023 Jun, September
  • 10 days
    Number of days. Mestia Program - Mestia
  • Hard
    Difficulty level - suitable for participants with experience in climbing 3-4 categories of difficulty.
  • Snow-ice
    Route class.
  • Caucasus (Svaneti)
    Mountain region.
  • Georgia, Mestia, Mazeri
    Country city.
  • Group
    1-2 member
  • Price
    2 - 2000$\per
    1-3600 $

Day 1.

Meeting in the village of Mestia. The height of the village is 1500 m. Overnight in a guest house.
Day 2.
ПWalks in Mestia. Equipment check. Start of acclimatization. Walk to the observation platform (2200 m) or higher to the Koruldi Lakes 2700 m. From there, in clear weather, a view of Ushba, Tetnuld and other peaks of the Caucasus opens up. *Or we can start the route earlier, saving this day as a spare.
Day 3.

Transfer from Mestia to Mazeri village (Becho community). Ascent to Camp 1, altitude 2500m. Overnight.

Day 4.
Trek to Camp 2, height 3300 m. This is the middle of the Ushba glacier. Overnight.
Day 5.
Trek to Ushba plateau 4000m. Storm camp.
Day 6.
Relaxation. Preparation for the ascent.
Day 7.
Climbing the Northern peak of Ushba. Then return to the assault camp.
Day 8.
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 9.
Descent to Mestia. Overnight at the guest house.
Day 10.
Departure to Tbilisi.
*** The program can be adjusted depending on weather conditions, the condition of the participants, security issues and other factors affecting the effectiveness and safety of the program at the discretion of the Guide.
  • Included in the price:
    • Transfer from Mestia to Mazeri (Becho) and back.
    • Accommodation in a guest house in Mestia for 3 days.
    • Meals on the active part of the route.
    • Group: gas, burners, pan. Tent rental.
    • Team equipment: ropes, ice screws, carabiners.
    • Emergency pharmacy at the guide.
    • Communication with the Ministry of Emergency Situations Registration of a border pass
  • The price does not include:
    • Transfer from Tbilisi to Mestia and back.
    • Flight to Georgia and back.
    • Accommodation in Tbilisi.
    • Personal equipment: crampons, ice axes, carabiners, harness, ice screws, helmet, backpack, etc.
    • Personal bivouac equipment: sleeping bag, dishes, etc.
    • Meals in cafes, restaurants.
    • Other expenses not specified in the program.
    • Medical insurance Climbing - is obligatory!!
Список снаряжения:
  1. Backpack 60-80l
  2. Trekking poles
  3. Mat
  4. head lamp
  5. shoe covers
  6. Sleeping bag -5 -10 comfort (Can be less depending on the outfit)
  7. Sunscreen 50 SPF, lipstick hygienic.
  8. Sunglasses 3-4 protection category
  9. Ski mask 2-3 cat, for bad weather
  10. Thermos
  11. Mug, bowl, spoon, knife
  12. The Band-Aid is wide
  13. Personal toiletries
  1. Mountaineering boots
  2. Cap
  3. Warm down jacket / Primaloft
  4. Warm Polartec / Primaloft pants
  5. Gore tex rain jacket
  6. Gore tex Winter Storm Pants
  7. Polartec
  8. Underwear top, bottom
  9. Thermal socks
  10. Cloth
  11. Polartec gloves (for working on rocks, ice, snow and rope)
  12. Top gloves
Special Equipment.
  1. Helmet
  2. Safety system
  3. Ice axe / ice tool / hybrid
  4. Crampons
  5. Jumar
  6. Self Belay
  7. Descent device ATC or Reverso (for descending on a twin rope)
  8. Carabiners 5 pieces with screwing sleeve
  9. ice screw 17 cm.
  10. Prusik (thickness depending on rope diameter
Passport, money (and card), phone, medical insurance:
Mountaineering - Compulsory!!!

The guide has a first aid kit only for emergencies. You must have your own medicines.
Personal hygiene
Hygienic lipstick, toothbrush, wet wipes, paper wipes toothpaste, etc.
Alexandr Moroz
Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
+995 591 710 117
+996 779 777 123
Whats App | Telegram
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