MOUNTAIN GUIDE

ALEXANDR MOROZ

NEPAL | ALPS | PAMIR | TIAN-SHAN

ROCK CLIMBING

MOUNTAINEERING

Individual programs for your goals and objectives!

Also in development new directions and you can request an ascent to a Mountain not listed on this site, which you are interested in. It is possible to make a program of ascent, expedition, course according to your desires and experience in any mountain and rock climbing region of the World.

Choose your adventure

2026 - 2027
HIMALAYAS
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ALPS
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Kyrgyzstan
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Mountaineering courses in Kyrgyzstan
подробнее
in Kyrgyzstan
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in Turkey, Italy, Greece, Alps
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Snow Leopard program

Kyrgyzstan - Tajikistan
Kyrgyzstan, Pamir
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Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan
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Tajikistan, Pamir
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Tajikistan, Pamir
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Pobeda peak 7439
2026 - 2027
Tian-Shan, Pamir

Snow leopard

2024
An unofficial title awarded to climbers of the five highest peaks of the former Soviet Union (Central Asia): Kyrgyzstan: Lenin, Khan-Tengri, and Pobeda peaks; Tajikistan: Korzhenevskaya and Ismail Somoni (Communism) peaks.

My YouTube channel

about the life of a mountain guide

Programs for your goals and objectives!

Climbing from technical mountains in Ala Archa and the Alps to peaks above 7,000 and 8,000 meters. When developing new routes, you can also request an ascent of a mountain not listed on this website that interests you. We can customize the ascent program, expedition, or course to suit your needs and experience!
YouTube - Moroz Mountains
Rock Climbing & Mountaneering

Qualifications and experience

Professional mountain guide, KMGA Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School | IFGMA aspirant.
PETZL Ambassador (Etalon Petzl Distributor), Zamberlan, Montura, Alpindustria
Since 2024, "Snow Leopard" No. 701. 14 ascents above 7,000 m, 2 winter
I've had a love for the outdoor lifestyle, ropes, and carabiners since childhood. From 4th to 11th grade, I attended the sports tourism club in my city, SYuTur, in Ukraine. I then continued developing in this field, which lasted over 12 years. I took up mountaineering in 2010. I completed two special training programs, then stopped climbing and began simply climbing difficult mountains. I spend a lot of time on the rocks in Turkey, in the Geyikbayırı region. The maximum category is 2025 m, two 8A.I traveled to Greece for the PETZL RocTRip festival in Manikia (2022), where I was in the Leonidio sector. I started out climbing a couple of 5a solo routes in Crimea. I have over nine years of experience as a guide. During this time, I have been to Elbrus, successfully completing over 23 ascents (out of 27) with groups and solo. I have climbed in the summer, spring, and fall, including winter ascents and one overnight stay on the Western Summit in February 2018. I also spent a lot of time on Kazbek, making over 12 ascents, also in the summer, fall, spring, and most of the time in winter. I spent an overnight stay on the summit in February 2018 after completing 3B. I have celebrated New Year's on Kazbek for five years in a row.Of course, there's also Tetnuld, and one of my favorite mountains, Ushba. I've successfully climbed 9 of 12 peaks. I've been to both summits, including the Ushba Traverse in October 2018. I once soloed South Ushba in 4 days in September 2019. Myshlyaev Route 6A - 2023. My first 7000k climb was Lenin Peak (7134m). It just so happened that I climbed it solo from Camp 1 (4400m) and reached the summit in 12 hours 36 minutes.I've also done speed climbs on Khan-Tengi in three days, but my goal is to do it in about the same time as Lenin. My favorite technical area is Ala Archa. I've explored it well over the past couple of years. Technical mountain climbs include those up to category 6A. I've made 14 successful ascents of peaks above 7,000 m since 2018, including two winter ascents of Peak Communism (7,495 m) via a new route along the S Stena in the winter of 2020, as part of the "Winter Snow Leopard" project team. This is perhaps my greatest athletic accomplishment to date.
3 solos - Lenin, Khan-Tengri, Korzhenevskaya. Pobeda Peak on Mountaineering Day, August 8, 2024, at 12:35. Also in the fall of 2024, I managed to visit Nepal, where Mark and I climbed the iconic Ama Dablam peak, 6812, along the Western Face. The third ascent of the American Direct Route. [This article is about the ascent.] explorersweb.com

I travel to various mountain and climbing destinations, from Turkey and the Alps to the mountains of Central Asia. Besides mountaineering, I also do ski touring and freeriding.
I run a YouTube channel about travel.

My travels aren't limited to the mountains. In June 2023, a friend and I drove through 10 Scandinavian and European countries I'd always dreamed of visiting: Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Poland, the Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, France (Chamonix), and Italy. In May 2025, we drove from Bulgaria through Greece, Italy, Monaco, France, Spain, and Portugal. In total, I've traveled to 25 countries so far.

For more information, visit my social media pages: Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube (link below).
Qualifications and experience
Professional mountain guide, KMGA Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School | IFGMA aspirant.
PETZL Ambassador (Etalon Petzl Distributor), Zamberlan, Montura, Alpindustria
Since 2024, "Snow Leopard" No. 701. 14 ascents above 7,000 m, 2 winter
I've had a love for the outdoor lifestyle, ropes, and carabiners since childhood. From 4th to 11th grade, I attended the sports tourism club in my city, SYuTur, in Ukraine. I then continued developing in this field, which lasted over 12 years. I took up mountaineering in 2010. I completed two special training programs, then stopped climbing and began simply climbing difficult mountains. I spend a lot of time on the rocks in Turkey, in the Geyikbayırı region. The maximum category is 2025 m, two 8A.I traveled to Greece for the PETZL RocTRip festival in Manikia (2022), where I was in the Leonidio sector. I started out climbing a couple of 5a solo routes in Crimea. I have over nine years of experience as a guide. During this time, I have been to Elbrus, successfully completing over 23 ascents (out of 27) with groups and solo. I have climbed in the summer, spring, and fall, including winter ascents and one overnight stay on the Western Summit in February 2018. I also spent a lot of time on Kazbek, making over 12 ascents, also in the summer, fall, spring, and most of the time in winter. I spent an overnight stay on the summit in February 2018 after completing 3B. I have celebrated New Year's on Kazbek for five years in a row.Of course, there's also Tetnuld, and one of my favorite mountains, Ushba. I've successfully climbed 9 of 12 peaks. I've been to both summits, including the Ushba Traverse in October 2018. I once soloed South Ushba in 4 days in September 2019. Myshlyaev Route 6A - 2023. My first 7000k climb was Lenin Peak (7134m). It just so happened that I climbed it solo from Camp 1 (4400m) and reached the summit in 12 hours 36 minutes.I've also done speed climbs on Khan-Tengi in three days, but my goal is to do it in about the same time as Lenin. My favorite technical area is Ala Archa. I've explored it well over the past couple of years. Technical mountain climbs include those up to category 6A. I've made 14 successful ascents of peaks above 7,000 m since 2018, including two winter ascents of Peak Communism (7,495 m) via a new route along the S Stena in the winter of 2020, as part of the "Winter Snow Leopard" project team. This is perhaps my greatest athletic accomplishment to date.
3 solos - Lenin, Khan-Tengri, Korzhenevskaya. Pobeda Peak on Mountaineering Day, August 8, 2024, at 12:35. Also in the fall of 2024, I managed to visit Nepal, where Mark and I climbed the iconic Ama Dablam peak, 6812, along the Western Face. The third ascent of the American Direct Route. [This article is about the ascent.] explorersweb.com

I travel to various mountain and climbing destinations, from Turkey and the Alps to the mountains of Central Asia. Besides mountaineering, I also do ski touring and freeriding.
I run a YouTube channel about travel.

My travels aren't limited to the mountains. In June 2023, a friend and I drove through 10 Scandinavian and European countries I'd always dreamed of visiting: Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Poland, the Czech Republic, Austria, Switzerland, France (Chamonix), and Italy. In May 2025, we drove from Bulgaria through Greece, Italy, Monaco, France, Spain, and Portugal. In total, I've traveled to 25 countries so far.

For more information, visit my social media pages: Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube (link below).
Climbing Ama Dablam's West Face with Mark Ablovatsky! American Direct's route and articles about the climb: explorersweb.com and risk

Синяя наша линия
Красная спуск

Benefits of climbing with experienced guides

The guide's task is to ensure safety and reach the summit with minimal risks and return back with positive emotions and a desire to return to new mountains.
  • Consultation. Route preparation
    Each mountain and route has its own characteristics. The guide helps to choose the tactics of preparation for the ascent of interest, training in the mountainous region of Ala Archa allows you to cover and work out the largest possible number of skills in one place, check and choose the right equipment.
  • Accompaniment throughout the program.
    Organization of transfers, accommodation and other services included in the tour. On programs in Kyrgyzstan, meeting clients at the airport. Also, if you need additional options: excursions or you want to visit, say, a museum after the program, swim in Issyk-Kul Lake - I will help you optimize your entertainment program.
  • Experience: efficiency and safety
    By choosing an experienced guide, you increase your chances of success. Taking into account the physical and technical level of the participant, weather, route features and other factors, an effective climbing tactic is built in the mountains. The priority in the work of a mountain guide is the safety of the client. Subject to this condition, I will try to get you to the top and back without exposing you to unnecessary risk.
  • Moroz FM is always fun :)
    I think that in the mountains, and not only in them, it should be not only "hard", as many joke), but also fun. Positive communication is the key to a good mood, wherever a person is. I know a lot of tales :) It is better to go climbing with positive thoughts.

Winter ascent of Communism Peak 7495

Winter Snow Leopard Project

Pamir 2020

From sporting events completed the project "Winter Snow Leopard"

Second in the history of world mountaineering Winter ascent to Communism Peak 7495 m

International team: Kyrgyzstan 8 people, Russia 5 people, Ukraine/Georgia 1 person made the second ever winter ascent to the highest point of the Pamirs, for the first time in the world, three participants achieved the title of Winter Snow Leopard, having visited the peaks of all 5 seven-thousanders of the former USSR: Sergey Seliverstov (Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek), Alexey Usatih (Russia, Barnaul), Mikhail Danichkin (Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek). The Winter Snow Leopard project took 5 years (2015 - 2020)..

Article 1
: https://risk.ru/blog/218036
Article 2: link

Photos and a song on the first video about the expedition to Ismoil Somoni peak 7495 m (Communism). The second ever winter ascent and the first on the new North Face route in January and February 2020. Tajikistan, Pamir mountain system.

Team:

1. Seliverstov Sergey - "Winter Snow Leopard", MSMK in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, project manager "Winter Snow Leopard" and captain of the RedFoxAsia team, 20 ascents of 7000+, 5 winter ascents of 7000+, 2 oxygen-free ascents of 8000 +, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
2. Danichkin Mikhail - "Winter Snow Leopard", MS in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, member of the RedFoxAsia team, 4 ascents of 7000+, 5 winter ascents of 7000+, winter expedition to K2 (2019), Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
3. Alexey Usatih - "Winter Snow Leopard", member of the RedFoxAsia team, 7 ascents of 7000+, 5 winter ascents of 7000+, Russia, Altai Territory, Almaty. Barnaul

4. Usmanov Artur - "Snow Leopard", CCM in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, 2 winter ascents to 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek.
5. Vorobyov Pavel - "Snow Leopard", Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering, guide IFMGA, Russia, Yekaterinburg.
6. Andrey Erokhin - "Snow Leopard", Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, more than 20 ascents of 7000+, including winter, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek.

7. Cherkasov Maxim - 1 s.r. in mountaineering, 2 oxygen-free ascents to 8000+, winter ascent to 7000+, post-graduate student of KMGA/IFMGA, Russia, St. Petersburg
8. Akimov Vitaliy - Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering, 16 ascents of 7000+, Russia, Tomsk
9. Maltsev Stepan - 1 s.r. mountaineering, climbing 7000+, Russia, Khabarovsk
10. Alipov Andrey - 2 s.r. mountaineering, 1 ascent 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
11. Krasovsky Sergey - 2nd grade in mountaineering, 1 ascent 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek

12. Moroz Alexander - 2 s.r. in mountaineering 8 ascents of 7000+, PhD student KMGA/IFMGA, Ukraine/Georgia/Kyrgyzstan
13. Filinov Victor - 1 wt, 3 ascents of 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
14. Aristova Natalia - 1st w.r. in mountaineering, 2 ascents of 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek. Expedition cook.
Photos from the expedition.
Video about the winter ascent to the peak of Communism.

Contacts:
Alexandr Moroz
Guide
Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
+995 591 710 117
+996 779 777 123
Whats App | Telegram
alpmoroz87@gmail.com
#morozmountains
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