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    MOUNTAIN GUIDE

    ALEXANDR MOROZ

    KMGA | IFMGA guide school - aspirant

    7000 PEAKS:
    LENIN
    KHAN-TENGRI
    POBEDA
    KORZHENEVSKAYA
    KOMMUNIZM


    ALA ARCHA | USHBA | KAZBEK | TETNULDI
    Mountaneering | Ice climbing
    Rock Climbing in Turkey

    Alexandr Moroz founder of Moroz Mountains!

    Mountain Guide | Mountain guide, post-graduate student of the Kyrgyz School of Mountain Guides KMGA | IFGMA
    I have had a love for the tourist lifestyle, ropes, carabiners since childhood. From the 4th to the 11th grade of school, I was engaged in the circle of sports tourism in my city SUTur. Then he continued to develop in this direction, which took more than 12 years. I have been involved in mountaineering since 2010. Completed 2 s.r. then stopped the discharge activity and started to just walk difficult mountains ... Developed the maximum level of free climbing on the rocks up to 7C. I started with climbing in the Crimea a couple of 5a solo. Over 9 years experience as a guide. During this time, I visited Elbrus, made more than 23 successful ascents (out of 27) with groups and sports, went in summer, spring, autumn, including winter ascents and one night on the Western peak in February 2018, spent a lot of time on Kazbek, more 12 ascents, also in summer, autumn, spring and most of the time in winter.Overnight at the summit in February 2018 after passing 3B, celebrated the New Year on Kazbek for 5 years in a row. Also, of course, Tetnuld, and one of my favorite Mountains - Ushba. 6 successful ascents. I was on both peaks, Ushba Traverse walks in October 2018, Once I climbed solo to South Ushba in 4 days in September 2019. My first 7000 k was Lenin Peak 7134m. It just so happened that for the first time I climbed it alone from Camp 1 (4400 m) and reached the summit in 12 hours 36 minutes. I also did high-speed ascents on Khan-Tengi in 3 days, but there is a goal to do it in about the same time as Lenin. Ala Archa became my favorite technical area. He has studied it well over the past couple of years. Technical climbing in the mountains goes up to 6A cat. 8 successful ascents of the mountain above 7000 m since 2018, including 2 in winter to Communism Peak (7495) using a new route along With Stene in the winter of 2020, as part of the Winter Snow Leopard project team. This is, perhaps, at the moment, my greatest sports pride.


    At the moment I live in Kyrgyzstan, where there is a lot of things that every climber needs, a combination of the most powerful mountains from 7000 kov to the legendary technical Ala Archa, located just 40 kilometers from the city of Bishkek, the capital of the country. Places where you can train all year round. Ski resorts near the city and in Karakol, ski touring and freeride areas of Jyrgalan, Susamyr. And the natural beauty of Asia. Thermal springs, which are so pleasant to plunge into after cold ascents, the nearest one is 70 km from the city, many beautiful lakes, Issyk-Kul.

    More information on my pages in social networks: Instagram, facebook and YouTube channel
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    Alexandr Moroz founder of Moroz Mountains!
    Mountain Guide | Mountain guide, post-graduate student of the Kyrgyz School of Mountain Guides KMGA | IFGMA
    I have had a love for the tourist lifestyle, ropes, carabiners since childhood. From the 4th to the 11th grade of school, I was engaged in the circle of sports tourism in my city SUTur. Then he continued to develop in this direction, which took more than 12 years. I have been involved in mountaineering since 2010. Completed 2 s.r. then stopped the discharge activity and started to just walk difficult mountains ... Developed the maximum level of free climbing on the rocks up to 7C. I started with climbing in the Crimea a couple of 5a solo. Over 9 years experience as a guide. During this time, I visited Elbrus, made more than 23 successful ascents (out of 27) with groups and sports, went in summer, spring, autumn, including winter ascents and one night on the Western peak in February 2018, spent a lot of time on Kazbek, more 12 ascents, also in summer, autumn, spring and most of the time in winter.Overnight at the summit in February 2018 after passing 3B, celebrated the New Year on Kazbek for 5 years in a row. Also, of course, Tetnuld, and one of my favorite Mountains - Ushba. 6 successful ascents. I was on both peaks, Ushba Traverse walks in October 2018, Once I climbed solo to South Ushba in 4 days in September 2019. My first 7000 k was Lenin Peak 7134m. It just so happened that for the first time I climbed it alone from Camp 1 (4400 m) and reached the summit in 12 hours 36 minutes. I also did high-speed ascents on Khan-Tengi in 3 days, but there is a goal to do it in about the same time as Lenin. Ala Archa became my favorite technical area. He has studied it well over the past couple of years. Technical climbing in the mountains goes up to 6A cat. 8 successful ascents of the mountain above 7000 m since 2018, including 2 in winter to Communism Peak (7495) using a new route along With Stene in the winter of 2020, as part of the Winter Snow Leopard project team. This is, perhaps, at the moment, my greatest sports pride.


    At the moment I live in Kyrgyzstan, where there is a lot of things that every climber needs, a combination of the most powerful mountains from 7000 kov to the legendary technical Ala Archa, located just 40 kilometers from the city of Bishkek, the capital of the country. Places where you can train all year round. Ski resorts near the city and in Karakol, ski touring and freeride areas of Jyrgalan, Susamyr. And the natural beauty of Asia. Thermal springs, which are so pleasant to plunge into after cold ascents, the nearest one is 70 km from the city, many beautiful lakes, Issyk-Kul.

    More information on my pages in social networks: Instagram, facebook and YouTube channel
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    Mountaneering programs, courses

    Trips are formed by request. The approach is more individual. From 1 to 2 participants per difficult peaks, if the summit allows you to take a group, in this case the group is formed at the rate of 3 participants per guide.
    Mountaineering course in Ala Archa
    Ice climbing in Kyrgyzstan
    Rock Climbing in Turkey, Greece
    Geyikbayiri, Olimpos

    High mountains

    7000 Tian Shan, Pamir
    Lenin peak 7134
    Kyrgyzstan, Pamir
    Khan-Tengri 7010
    Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan
    Korzhenevskaya peak 7105
    Tajikistan, Pamir
    Kommunizm peak 7495
    Tajikistan, Pamir

    Technical mountains

    Tian Shan, Caucasus
    Ushba
    Caucasus, Georgia
    Tetnuldi 4585
    Caucasus, Georgia
    Kazbek 5033
    Caucasus, Georgia

    Benefits of climbing with experienced guides

    The guide's task is to ensure safety and reach the summit with minimal risks and return back with positive emotions and a desire to return to new mountains.
    • Consultation. Route preparation
      Each mountain and route has its own characteristics. The guide helps to choose the tactics of preparation for the ascent of interest, training in the mountainous region of Ala Archa allows you to cover and work out the largest possible number of skills in one place, check and choose the right equipment.
    • Accompaniment throughout the program.
      Organization of transfers, accommodation and other services included in the tour. On programs in Kyrgyzstan, meeting clients at the airport. Also, if you need additional options: excursions or you want to visit, say, a museum after the program, swim in Issyk-Kul Lake - I will help you optimize your entertainment program.
    • Experience: efficiency and safety
      By choosing an experienced guide, you increase your chances of success. Taking into account the physical and technical level of the participant, weather, route features and other factors, an effective climbing tactic is built in the mountains. The priority in the work of a mountain guide is the safety of the client. Subject to this condition, I will try to get you to the top and back without exposing you to unnecessary risk.
    • Moroz FM is always fun :)
      I think that in the mountains, and not only in them, it should be not only "hard", as many joke), but also fun. Positive communication is the key to a good mood, wherever a person is. I know a lot of tales :) It is better to go climbing with positive thoughts.
    From sporting events completed the project "Winter Snow Leopard"

    Second in the history of world mountaineering Winter ascent to Communism Peak 7495 m

    International team: Kyrgyzstan 8 people, Russia 5 people, Ukraine/Georgia 1 person made the second ever winter ascent to the highest point of the Pamirs, for the first time in the world, three participants achieved the title of Winter Snow Leopard, having visited the peaks of all 5 seven-thousanders of the former USSR: Sergey Seliverstov (Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek), Alexey Usatih (Russia, Barnaul), Mikhail Danichkin (Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek). The Winter Snow Leopard project took 5 years (2015 - 2020)..

    Article 1
    : https://risk.ru/blog/218036
    Article 2: link

    Photos and a song on the first video about the expedition to Ismoil Somoni peak 7495 m (Communism). The second ever winter ascent and the first on the new North Face route in January and February 2020. Tajikistan, Pamir mountain system.

    Team:

    1. Seliverstov Sergey - "Winter Snow Leopard", MSMK in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, project manager "Winter Snow Leopard" and captain of the RedFoxAsia team, 20 ascents of 7000+, 5 winter ascents of 7000+, 2 oxygen-free ascents of 8000 +, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
    2. Danichkin Mikhail - "Winter Snow Leopard", MS in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, member of the RedFoxAsia team, 4 ascents of 7000+, 5 winter ascents of 7000+, winter expedition to K2 (2019), Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
    3. Alexey Usatih - "Winter Snow Leopard", member of the RedFoxAsia team, 7 ascents of 7000+, 5 winter ascents of 7000+, Russia, Altai Territory, Almaty. Barnaul
    4. Usmanov Artur - "Snow Leopard", CCM in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, 2 winter ascents to 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek.
    5. Vorobyov Pavel - "Snow Leopard", Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering, guide IFMGA, Russia, Yekaterinburg.
    6. Andrey Erokhin - "Snow Leopard", Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering, IFMGA guide, more than 20 ascents of 7000+, including winter, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek.
    7. Cherkasov Maxim - 1 s.r. in mountaineering, 2 oxygen-free ascents to 8000+, winter ascent to 7000+, post-graduate student of KMGA/IFMGA, Russia, St. Petersburg
    8. Akimov Vitaliy - Candidate Master of Sports in mountaineering, 16 ascents of 7000+, Russia, Tomsk
    9. Maltsev Stepan - 1 s.r. mountaineering, climbing 7000+, Russia, Khabarovsk
    10. Alipov Andrey - 2 s.r. mountaineering, 1 ascent 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
    11. Krasovsky Sergey - 2nd grade in mountaineering, 1 ascent 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
    12. Moroz Alexander - 2 s.r. in mountaineering 8 ascents of 7000+, PhD student KMGA/IFMGA, Ukraine/Georgia/Kyrgyzstan
    13. Filinov Victor - 1 wt, 3 ascents of 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
    14. Aristova Natalia - 1st w.r. in mountaineering, 2 ascents of 7000+, Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek. Expedition cook.
    Photos from the expedition.
    Video about the winter ascent to the peak of Communism.

    Контакты:
    Alexandr Moroz
    гид программы
    Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek
    +995 591 710 117
    +996 779 777 123
     Whats App | Telegram
    alpmoroz87@gmail.com
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